Kyoto’s Jidai Matsuri

I. Jidai Matsuri: Stepping Back into Samurai Kyoto

If you’re a photographer with a soft spot for samurai, court nobles, and the layered history of medieval Japan, Kyoto’s Jidai Matsuri (時代祭), or Festival of the Ages, is one of those bucket-list experiences you shouldn’t miss. Every October 22nd, Kyoto rolls out a time-travelling procession that feels like you’re watching a thousand years of Japanese history unfold in real time—through the lens of your camera.

That date isn’t random—it marks the day Emperor Kanmu established Heian-kyō (present-day Kyoto) as the imperial capital in 794 CE. The festival has been held annually since 1895, with only a few interruptions (such as during wartime or extreme weather).

In 1985, the Heian Shrine was newly built, and the city decided to celebrate its past with a living timeline. Today, the result is a procession of over 2,000 participants dressed in meticulously recreated costumes, spanning from the Meiji era back through the centuries of samurai rule to the elegant Heian court.

For history lovers, it’s like watching your favourite Japanese history scroll (or an Akira Kurosawa movie) come alive. For photographers, it’s a once-a-year chance to capture portraits that look like they belong in a museum.

II. Quick Facts: Jidai Matsuri

• One of Kyoto’s “Big Three”: Alongside Aoi Matsuri (May 15) and Gion Matsuri (July).
• Frequency: Once a year (not twice)—always on October 22nd.
• Significance of the date: Marks the anniversary of Kyoto’s founding as Heian-kyō in 794 CE.
• First held: 1895, to celebrate Kyoto’s 1,100th anniversary and the opening of Heian Shrine.
• Scale: Over 2,000 participants, several kilometres long, lasting about 2–3 hours.
• Time: Parade begins around 12:00 PM at the Kyoto Imperial Palace and ends at Heian Shrine around 2:30–3:00 PM

III. The Parade: A Photographer’s Playground

The magic of Jidai Matsuri lies in its reverse chronology. The parade kicks off with figures from the Meiji Restoration—military officers, statesmen—and gradually rewinds the centuries. Soon you’re seeing:

• Samurai in full armour, marching with the stoic pride of the Sengoku era.
• Poet-warriors like Tomoe Gozen are represented with grace and strength.
• Court ladies of the Heian period, with trailing silk robes and painted faces, move gracefully, evoking The Tale of Genji.
• Merchants, soldiers, artisans, and nobles from the medieval and Edo periods bring texture to the spectacle.
• Finally, figures from the Meiji era signal Japan’s modernisation.

At the end come the mikoshi (portable shrines) carrying the spirits of Emperor Kanmu (who founded Kyoto) and Emperor Kōmei (the last emperor to reign there).

As a photographer, the sheer variety of eras and costumes means every step of the parade offers a new composition.

IV. Shooting Tips for Jidai Matsuri

Here are some tips that worked for me:

• Procession’s route: Familiarise yourself with the procession’s route by consulting online maps that indicate the start and finish, as well as the essential landmarks in between (see section below for details). Since the procession begins late in the day (around 11 AM), I had time to scout the area and reserve myself a nice location at the gate of the imperial palace.
• Juxtaposing eras: Unless you deliberately want to show a modern 21st-century background intermixed with historic figures and costumes, you need to choose your location carefully. The one I chose happened to be at the entrance of the imperial palace with trees or crowds (unfortunately) in the background. Naturally, some places along the procession route are more advantageous than others. The best vantage point is when the subjects are coming toward you, with a background of the castle or castle gate. You want to avoid having modern elements in your frame along with a samurai in full battle armour. The crowds in the background were extremely annoying as they constantly popped up in the frame. Ideally, the best location would have been right in front of the palace gates, but for that, you would need a telephoto lens and a tripod if you wish to capture close-ups such as the ones I had.
• Arrive early: The prime spots—near the Kyoto Imperial Palace or along Sanjō and Shijō streets—fill up fast. If you can bring one of those folding chairs, some snacks, and a bottle of water, these will prove to be of great help.

V. Camera Gear

A telephoto lens (70–200mm) with a fast aperture (f4 and above) is perfect for isolating individuals in the crowd, especially samurai with intricate armour details. It needs to have decent autofocus speed (in addition to that of the camera) despite the fact that the procession moves slowly, and there is usually plenty of time to take a few shots of each subject.

There will be times, however, when there is more than one subject of interest, in which case you need to move fast between them. Here is where a camera and lens combo with superb autofocus (especially eye-detect autofocus) would come in really handy.

You also want to use the widest aperture to maximise the subject-background separation, particularly if your background consists mainly of other photographers and tourists. I did find myself sometimes stopping it down to f8 for sharper images. This ensured that the clothes, armour, weapons and artifacts carried by the samurai, retainers, and officials remained in focus.

For such occasions as the Jidai Matsuri, I use a long telephoto zoom lens exclusively. The convenience of the zoom lens and the ability to capture portrait shots from a distance have several advantages. First, you can avoid high-contrast scenes when the sky is much brighter than your subject. Second, the subject/background separation can be maximised as the subject gets closer.

Nikon has a superb 70-200mm f4, which is my go-to lens in these situations. I have seen YouTubers hailing the 70-300mm F4.5-5.6 Nikon as the best travel lens. While the extra range can be handy, I found the plastic construction and image quality to be less excellent than those of the 70-200mm F4.

VI. The Route of the Jidai Matsuri

1. Kyoto Imperial Palace (Kyōto Gosho) – Starting Point

The parade begins in the expansive grounds of the Kyoto Imperial Palace, once the residence of Japan’s emperors before the capital moved to Tokyo in 1869.

• Historically significant: This is where emperors held audiences, court ceremonies, and state functions for centuries.
• Photographers: The wide gravel paths and traditional palace gates make for dramatic backdrops when participants first set off.

2. Karasuma-dōri

The procession exits the palace grounds and moves onto Karasuma Street, one of Kyoto’s main north-south arteries.

• Important note: Here, the streets are wide and flanked by modern buildings, which can create interesting contrasts in photos between the 21st century and the centuries-old costumes.

3. Oike-dōri

From Karasuma, the parade turns east onto Oike Street. This is a central thoroughfare that cuts through Kyoto’s modern downtown.

• Landmarks: City Hall is situated along this stretch, and the broad avenue provides ample space for large crowds to gather.
• Photographers: The openness here makes it easier to capture sweeping shots of multiple eras of history moving together.

4. Kawaramachi-dōri

Continuing eastward, the procession crosses Kawaramachi Street, one of Kyoto’s busiest shopping districts.

• Important note: This part of the route juxtaposes participants in medieval armour and court robes against the backdrop of department stores and neon signs.
• Photographers: It’s the perfect spot to frame past vs. present in one shot.

5. Sanjō and Shijō Streets (Crossing the Kamo River)

The parade eventually crosses the Kamo River, Kyoto’s lifeline, over either Sanjō Ōhashi or Shijō Ōhashi, depending on the logistics of the year.

• Historically significant: The riverbanks have long been hubs of social and cultural life, dating back to the Heian period.
• Photographers: With the river, bridges, and autumn leaves, this section offers more natural scenery than downtown streets.

6. Heian Shrine (Heian Jingū) – Ending Point

The procession concludes dramatically at Heian Shrine, marked by one of the largest torii gates in Japan. The shrine was built in 1895 to commemorate Kyoto’s founding and is dedicated to Emperor Kanmu (who established Kyoto as the capital in 794) and Emperor Kōmei (the last Kyoto-based emperor).

Photographers: The shrine’s vermilion torii gate and sprawling courtyard provide a striking stage for the procession’s climax, especially as the mikoshi (portable shrines) carrying the emperors’ spirits arrive.

VII. What You’ll See in the Procession

The Jidai Matsuri procession is divided into around 20 historical groups, each representing a different era of Kyoto’s past. Together, they bring more than 1,000 years of Japanese history to life. For photographers, understanding the characters and costumes helps you anticipate shots and frame them with context.

1. Meiji Restoration (19th century)

• Characters: Statesmen, intellectuals, and military leaders who modernised Japan after 1868. Figures like Ōkubo Toshimichi and Saigō Takamori are often represented.
• Costumes: A mix of traditional and early Western-style uniforms. Military participants wear dark wool uniforms with peaked caps, while officials don hakama (pleated trousers) and crested haori jackets.
• Photographic Notes: Strong contrasts between Western tailoring and Japanese garments make for striking side-by-side compositions.

2. Edo Period (17th–19th centuries)

• Characters: Merchants, artisans, townspeople, and samurai. These groups highlight Kyoto’s role as a cultural hub during Tokugawa rule.
• Costumes:
  • Merchants in indigo-dyed cotton kimonos with crest-patterned hanten jackets.
  • Samurai in two-sword daishō sets, hakama trousers, and sometimes armour.
  • Women in elegant Edo-style kimono, with elaborate obi knots.
• Photographic Notes: Fabrics here often feature indigo, hemp leaf, and geometric prints—ideal for texture close-ups.

3. Azuchi-Momoyama Period (16th century)

• Characters: Feudal lords (daimyō) and their retinues, reflecting Japan’s unification under leaders like Oda Nobunaga and Toyotomi Hideyoshi.
• Costumes: Brightly lacquered armour with gilt crests, oversized war banners (nobori), and ornate helmets (kabuto), often topped with horns or crescents.
• Photographic Notes: This is where you’ll find the flashiest samurai armour—gold leaf, brocade, and crimson lacing. A must for dramatic portraits.

4. Muromachi Period (14th–16th centuries)

• Characters: Ashikaga shoguns, court nobles, and warriors.
• Costumes:
  • Aristocrats in kariginu hunting robes, often dyed in subdued colours.
  • Buddhist monks in saffron robes, sometimes carrying ritual implements.
  • Samurai in earlier forms of armour, with a simpler design than Momoyama.
• Photographic Notes: Look for layered silk robes in earth tones—a subtle palette compared to other periods.

5. Kamakura Period (12th–14th centuries)

• Characters: Early shogunate officials, mounted archers, and court guards.
• Costumes: Distinctive ō-yoroi (great armour) with boxy silhouettes, horsehair crests, and wide-laced plates. Archers carry long yumi bows and quivers.
• Photographic Notes: Motion shots of mounted archers adjusting their gear make for powerful action portraits.

6. Heian Period (8th–12th centuries)

• Characters: Court nobles and ladies, the cultural icons of Kyoto’s golden age. This section is considered the highlight of the festival.
• Costumes:
  • Men in sokutai, the formal robes of the court, complete with tall lacquered eboshi caps.
  • Women in a junihitoe, the famous twelve-layered kimono ensemble, weigh up to 20 kilograms. Each layer is colour-coordinated to seasonal aesthetics, a concept known as kasane no irome.
  • Court ladies often carry fans or parasols, moving with slow, measured grace.
• Photographic Notes: This is where patience pays off—wait for the light to hit the layered sleeves of a junihitoe, and you’ll capture a breathtaking gradient of colours and textures.

VIII. Closing Remarks

Attending the Jidai Matsuri made my trip to Kyoto in October 2024 incredibly impressive. It was an immense privilege to experience a 120-year-old tradition that began in 1895. The attire, artifacts, and wagons are as authentic as you can expect. If you arrive an hour or two before the procession commences, you will have plenty of opportunity to pick a good place to install your camera and tripod.